Learn How To Use Daisy Glass Screens & Keep your bong/ pipe clean today on Cannabasics #118.
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Learn How To Make CBD Oil With A Rosin Press Today On Cannabasics #116.
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High CBD Hemp
Cold Pack (Frozen)
Learn How To Germinate Cannabis Seeds in Rock-wool Cubes for Hydroponics Today on Cannabasics #115
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Learn How To Get The Best Vapors From Your Dry Herb Vape With These Simple Weed Vaping Tips Today On Cannabasics #114
Get a free gift with the code Ruff4 at https://nyvapeshop.com where you can find the vaporizer and grinders used in this video.
Tips to get good vapor:
Smoke v/s Vapor
After reviewing dozens of dry herb vaporizers a common question arises frequently, “How big of hits can you get?” And a common complaint is that cloud chasers feel they can’t get a good, or big, hit off of a vaporizer. That often has to do with the expectations that many cannabis smokers have when comparing the hit of smoking weed with the vapor from a dry herb vaporizer. But vapor and smoke are very different and that false comparison is easy to overcome with a little bit of information.
The key difference between combusted smoke and the vapor from a dry herb vaporizer is the drastically reduced amounts of tar and carbon-monoxide in vapor. As is evident by comparing spent dry herbs from a vaporizer with the ashes from a bowl of the same herbs. You can see that the combustion of the fire in the bowl reduces the plant matter to ashes. This releases a significantly larger amount of dangerous and unnecessary tar and other chemicals into your lungs often resulting in the reflex to cough and expel the carbon monoxide and other toxins as quickly as possible.
With the herbs from a vaporizer however, they look recognizable and intact usually with just a browning and darkening of the material. Although there is some THC and other cannabinoids remaining in vaporized cannabis, which can be used on tinctures and edibles, evidence shows that the amount of THC delivered to the user is not severely reduced by using a vaporizer. Possibly due to the combustion of smoking destroying THC and other desirable cannabinoids, flavonoids and terpenes reducing them to ash and tar.
Knowing what kind of hit and flavor to expect from a dry herb vaporizer is key to it’s enjoyment and effectiveness.
Combustion v/s Convection and Conduction
The AGO Vaporizer is a combustion vape. This means that the cannabis makes direct contact with the heating element and will turn the herbs into ash. It is perhaps a misnomer to call it a vaporizer but is usually marketed as such. If you ADD GLASS SCREENS TO THE AGO VAPORIZER, then you can create more vapor rather than smoke by creating a buffer between the heat element and the herbs. This is similar to how the other true vaporizers work.
The E-Clips vaporizer fits into the category of convection and conduction vaporizers. This means that the herbs are heated through passive heat. In conduction vaporizers the heating elements heat the housing material of the chamber (often ceramic) and the heat is transferred via conduction by contact with the heated ceramic and aided by the airflow. In convection vaporizers the cannabis is not in direct contact with the heat but rather heated by hot air as it is drawn through the chamber of herbs. Many true vaporizers use a combination of these latter two types of heating to achieve the best results.
You can find the E-clipse and AGO vaporizers and grinders used in this video at https://nyvapeshop.com (Get a free gift with the code Ruff4 )
More information on vaping cannabis with a dry herb vaporizer:
Learn How to Make Terpenes eJuice with Wax, Shatter and Rosin today on Cannabasics Episode 111. Sponsored by Terps USA terpsusa.com
What you need:
Learn How to Use Oil Cartridges with Vape Pen Batteries Today On Cannabasics #110
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Anatomy of a 510 Thread Cartridge:
Learn how to test and adjust soil PH for growing cannabis plants today on Seeds, Soil & Sun: Season 2: Episode 2.
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What is soil PH and why does it matter?
Part of having a healthy growing environment for your cannabis crop is making sure your soil PH levels are optimum. PH, or Potential Hydrogen, refers to the relative acidity or alkalinity of your soil. It is measured on a scale of 1 to 14 with lower numbers starting at full acidity and moving to alkaline as the numbers grow.
The soil PH being too far one way or the other will disrupt the plants ability to intake the vital nutrients it needs to grow, flower and harvest a fully robust crop. For the cannabis plant, the ideal PH is just slightly acidic, in the range between 6 and 7 on the PH scale.
How do I test my soil PH?
In order to test the PH of your soil you do have some options. You can take, or send, your soil to a testing facility. There are hand held electronic meters with probes that are inserted into the soil to give you a reading on the PH. And you can also also purchase kits that allow you to test the PH by adding water and a testing solution to the soil and then comparing the color on a chart to determine the PH.
How do I adjust my soil PH?
Once you have determined the current PH of your soil you can decide whether or not you should adjust it. Because the ideal range is somewhere between 6 and 7 on the scale it is very like that you already fall into that range. But if your soil is 5 (acidic) or below, or 7 (alkaline) or above you would want to fix it for optimal plant productivity and health.
In order to lower the PH (Or raise the acidity) you can add a soil acidifier which increases the sulfur in the soil, which will lower the PH. The amount needed depends on the strength of the acidifier, the amount of your soil and the degree to which it needs corrected. Similarly, to raise the PH, or to make the soil more alkaline, you can add lime into the soil. You can buy special pelleted lime or use powdered lime and again the amount needed depends on the soils amount and needs and you should follow the direction of the product you choose.
Another way to adjust your PH is to change the amount of acidic elements in your soil mix. Peat moss is usually acidic and you can adjust the proportion of it to change the acidity by adding more for more acidity and less for more alkalinity in the soil.
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